Masahiko Yomoda still loves cooking French food even though he is now cooking beautiful Japanese. He also loves making good food accessible to a wider dining public. He dreams of opening his own place one day and he's interested in bringing chefs together in community to share ideas and experiences. and are lucky to have such a thoughtful and creative chef at the helm.
My English is not very good.
My Japanese is not very good. Perhaps we could speak in French. I’m a French teacher and I read that you had spent time in France.
Yes I was working at the Tokyo Robuchon for six years and then I went to France to study.
What was it like working at a place like Robuchon which has such a big reputation?
It was very very hard. Crazy. I got sick. You had to concentrate a lot and follow his way. If he said one minute or two minutes for something, you had to follow that. If not, everything was thrown out. It was very strict.
So you started at the bottom and worked your way up?
Yes I was an apprentice. I had to clean up and do the garbage bins for one year and then slowly, slowly gained trust and learned more.
Six years is quite a long time, though, and I am sure in a place like that, they would get rid of you if you’re not good enough.
Many people resigned. In one year, 60 to 80 people resigned. It was always changing. I am lucky. I almost got sacked three times because I made so many mistakes but I said sorry and asked to stay. You must have been determined to be a chef.
What do you think kept you going?
I grew up in a hospitality family. My mother was a Japanese pastry chef and my father worked in a European pastry shop and at the same time, my grandfather was a farmer.
So there was a connection to the production of food as well?
Yes. I have good memories of food creation as well.
After Robuchon and studying in France, did you continue with French food?
Yes. I love French food. But unfortunately I had to change my style because fine dining doesn’t make money to support a family. So I changed to a more casual style of cooking.
So you are overseeing Tetsujin and the Rice Workshop. What’s the difference between the two?
Rice Workshop is a takeaway and Tetsujin is more of a family restaurant.
I have a motto and it’s about the team. You have be able to work in a team. Being a human being is the same. I can’t survive by myself. We have to help each other. We have to be a team.
Are you able to still use your French techniques here?
A little bit. I wanted to use my techniques and understanding of taste in a casual context. Because many people cannot afford fine dining. Fine dining costs so much to run and labour costs are high in those restaurants. Rice Workshop has a lot of variety of flavours for a reasonable price.
I read that it’s a taste of Japan in a bowl. Is that true? Is it authentically Japanese?
Yes. It’s authentic. I don’t cook at Workshop, I work on the creative aspect and the costing. I cook at Tetsujin.
What do you prefer cooking? Do you prefer preparing plates for the sushi train or for the barbeque?
Both. There is so much variety here. We are doing a special lunch here at the moment. A set menu Japanese style lunch box with more of a modern European style.
Ok. So that allows you to be creative then.
Yes.
How long have you been in Australia?
Ten years in Sydney, but at the same time I worked in the United Arabs Emirates and Malaysia.
Sydney is quite different to Melbourne in terms of dining.
Yes, the culture is different and taste is different as well. The market price is different as well.
What are the most popular dishes here at Tetsujin?
People favour the premium set, so wagyu. Wagyu is very popular.
Do you use a particular knife?
I use a Japanese sashimi knife. I use Misono. It’s a Japanese brand. It’s very very nice. I’ve had the same knife for 16 years. It fits in my hand. My knives are my tools.
How many different knives would you have in your kit?
Maybe more than 30.
Do you sharpen them every day?
Not every day, but often.
What would you say to young chefs who are starting out now? What would your advice be?
Be patient. Because this generation is different. I have a motto and it’s about the team. You have be able to work in a team. Being a human being is the same. I can’t survive by myself. We have to help each other. We have to be a team.
295 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne