Originally from Nelson in Aotearoa, New Zealand, head chef Ryan Lynch is doing creative things out in the Yarra Valley at Locavore Studio. I was lucky enough to be invited to dinner out there and the way he treats local produce is glorious. I was sure Ryan would have some things to say about truffles and I was not disappointed.
Conversation with a chef: Hi Ryan, tell me about your experience with truffles?
Ryan Lynch: When I got the best truffles I've ever had was would've been in a cafe at Sir Charles. I was just doing really simple stuff with them really. Andtowards the end of the season Iwasgetting the cheaper ones and playing around, fermenting them. But probably my favourite thing that I did was truffle scramble. And that it was basically super fresh eggs mixed up with cream and cooked really slowly, a proper French scramble, not like folded eggs or anything like that like guys are doing these days in cafes. It was stirred down really nicely and slow and then truffle added to that. I think it just emphasised the use of the truffle. Something super simple.
Do you have to learn special techniques when you are using truffles?
I don't reckon, you just need to know the basics of cooking, how to draw the most out of it, in my opinion. I reckon you only ever want to do something super simple with them because if you're using something so special, you want to just make it shine. But I don't think there are special techniques, it's just super basic cooking and being able to identify that that's the way you should do it. That's probably the hard part for some, but I guess anyone that knows what they're doing and anyone that's using truffles should already know that they shouldn't be doing anything crazy with them. It should be simple.
And where you are now out in the Yarra Valley at Locavore, I would imagine that you would have access to some pretty good truffles out that way.
Yes, there's a guy, Stuart at Yarra Valley Truffles, and he'll probably be the guy we go through when they come around. He's super passionate and he's eating truffles all year round. He's got them in the freezer. I check on his Instagram every now and again and he was still making stuff from truffles last month. That'll be the guy we go through almost definitely.
What sort of dishes would you use them in at Locavore. We talked about how much I loved your agnolini and how it was like sinking down into a warm bath with candlelight, because it's so delicious and cozy and savoury. Is that the dish you would use truffles with?
I'll play around with it. I probably will, because I'll have to find a way to utilise them the right way to not overpower them. But also that's something special that we're putting some work into. And then we're putting something special, like truffles on that as well. Its showcasing some technique and some time spent in the dish as well as then putting truffle on that as well. I'll probably think about an agnolini dish, whether I fill that with what we're already filling it with, or if I do something like fermented mushroom. I use fermented mushroom quite a lot in various things. So I could fill the agnolini with that, see how that goes. But the only thing I'm worried about with that is the acidity. There's a slight acidity to the fermented mushroom, so I'm hoping that that doesn't overpower it too much. I am assuming Kyle in the cafe will want to get on board as well, so if he does a truffle scramble, that'd be good.
I'll probably play around with ice cream too, actually. I'd have to cool my anglaise down to a certain temperature, not too hot, obviously. And probably just grate it in. And then churn it. I'll play with that. I'll see what happens. Whether I'm going to put it in the milk first or whether I'm going to put it at the end step, I'm not quite sure yet. I'll just see what gets the better flavour out of it.
That'd be quite fascinating. So it'd be quite savoury, but sweet.
I'm just thinking about it now, if I could go some caramelly component, if that's going to be too much. Not sure.
I don’t think there are special techniques, it’s just super basic cooking and being able to identify that that’s the way you should do it. That’s probably the hard part for some, but I guess anyone that knows what they’re doing and anyone that’s using truffles should already know that they shouldn’t be doing anything crazy with them. It should be simple.~ Ryan Lynch, Locavore Studio
We talked before about that you cooked in Christchurch at one of my favourite restaurants St Germain. Did they have truffles there?
I never really had access to them there. I was pretty young then, so I didn't really know too much to be honest. It's crazy what you know 10 plus years down the track.
Oh, of course. Do they grow truffles in New Zealand?
Yes, they do. I'm just trying to think of where they come out of. I think it's up north. I have a feeling there's surely some down south, but I don't know.
Well, thank you. That was great to talk to you about truffles. What are you doing in the kitchen today?
I'm smoking the beetroots. Ive been playing around with smoking beetroots lately,just finding out the best way to get the best texture out of them. Whether to give them a little steam first. And then put them on the smoker. Also, I had a bit of leftover tuna, so I've started a mojama. It is cured and dried tuna essentially. I actually put a bit of bush tomato spice in the cure as well. I'll cure that for a couple of days and let it air dry and see what happens. So I'm just having a little play today.
You're so creative. Where do all these ideas come from?
I think the best thing is leftover ingredients. I've got a bit too much tuna this week. I've got a big chunk of tuna that I need to get rid of, and we're off for the next three days. So I need to figure something out. I have to find a way to preserve it. Thats ancient cooking, not ancient, but what did they do back in the day when they didn't have fridges? Just preserved it. Salt, flavours. I'm pretty confident it'll come out. It's pretty much my chill day today before service So I'lljust let things run out a little bit.
Locavore Studio, 148 Main Street, Lilydale